A day in the life of Novara

With rare easterlies forecast we had to find an anchorage that would give us shelter from these winds and the williwaws it would bring with it.

We cut short our planned passage and at the head of Puerto Fanny, a deep inlet on the NE corner of Isla Stewart found a spot that would provide a safe anchorage.

The day had been filled with wildlife, Whales, Magellan Penguins, Fur Seals, Sealions, Albatross and a wide variety of sea birds.

As we entered the bay 6 dolphins came to play and from previous experience we knew that once we dropped the dinghy they would continue to do so.

Alan set off at high speed with all the dolphins in chase, simply looking for a new playmate.

With the anchor well set and four lines from each corner tied to the trees we could sleep soundly.

We motor sailed east the following morning along the south shore of Isla O’Brien and then into the 11 mile long Seno Ventisquero.

We had read that there was an impressive series of tidewater glaciers at the head that poured large chunks of ice into the sea, occasionally choking the entrance.

Sadly this description was written in 2003 and with the ravages of climate change these glaciers were shadows of their former self.

The evidence of their demise is everywhere, bare rock that was once covered with ice, the charts showing we were some distance inside the old glacial extent and little or no evidence of activity from the face of the single tidewater glacier, the rest having retreated up the mountain sides.

They are still majestic but imagine what they must have been like in the recent past.