Heading North

The weather on the southern end of the island is generally a magnitude more severe than further north, so with more gales forecast we decided to head north, first to St Andrews Bay, home to around 750,000 King Penguins, and at this time of year numerous Elephant, Fur and Leopard Seals. We spent hours walking the beach amongst the wildlife, Elephant and Fur seal pups and over 100,000 fluffy brown Penguin chicks.

There are strict rules about how close you can get to any of the wildlife but frequently the wildlife would come to you. The Elephant seals are usually too lazy to bother about you unless they think you are getting too close to the pups, the Fur seals are usually aggressive and try to chase you away and the Penguins come over to check you out.

St Andrews is not a great anchorage so we headed further north to the more sheltered Godthul Harbour for a quiet night and then planned to complete our sail north to Possession Bay with a forecast of light winds. Once again South Georgia weather intervened and the 5kt westerlies turned into 30kt Northerlies. With the wind on the nose and big seas we decided to bale out and turn back into Grytviken to wait for better weather.

Once again we were welcomed by Paula the government officer and the BAS team stationed there and with Pelagic Australis also coming into the bay after sailing south from Possession Bay we rafted up to the dock at the old whaling station for a second time.