Back to Grytviken

With the storm that we have been watching develop for a few days now due to hit South Georgia, we decided to leave our anchorage in Prince Olav and sit out the storm alongside the jetty in Grytviken.

The 35 knot south westerly winds on the west coast had generated williwaws in excess of 50 knots in the anchorage and the complex mountains around had moved the boat through a 270 degree arc. With 2 x 45kg anchors set in series and over 100m of chain laid to keep us in place this constant movement had created a considerable tangle in the kelp and after digging the overnight snow out of the cockpit it took over 2 hours to clear the kelp from the chain and anchors.

We arrived back in Grytviken before the arrival of Pharos, the fisheries protection vessel, and then Santa Maria Australis carrying a BBC documentary film crew, who planned to film Elephant Seals and the huge King Penguin colony in St Andrews Bay where we had been a couple of weeks ago.

We asked them about the basis of the Leopard Seal singing and they told us that the Leopards used the sea ice to amplify the sound and that they probably came under our hull and sang for the same reason. Fascinating!